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Stones Wafting from the Depth of History
Hashem Shafiq
In the course of my travels and sails around this ever shrinking world,
and the leaps in technology, which had by the Millenium, touched every
field (cultural, creative, economical, and scientific), I became aware
of the customs and the heritage of the various nations; their aesthetic
and cultural development as well as their perception of the arts and literature.
Interest in architecture and the preservation of relics- the legacy and
essence of mankind- became paramount, for it depicts and records the knowledge,
development , and progress of Man.
History tells us a great deal about the various discoveries which have
led to our status quo, it tells us about the brilliant advances in industry
and production which have both contributed to the social and scientific
bloom we now enjoy.
This awareness prompts us to look back with a critical and open eyes,
and contemplate the childhood of Man as it were, back to the very first
beginnings; to Iraq – the birthplace of Sumerian, Assyrian and Babylon
civilizations. The discovery of writing, was the pinnacle of their achievements
which they applied to inscribe of their knowledge, sciences, legislations,
and poetry manifested in the Sumerian Epic of Gelgamesh.
The Greeks played no lesser role in the advancement of science, and the
expanding the horizons in philosophy. They were later followed by the
Egyptian Pharaohs and the Phoenicians who dwelled in the Middle East.
Later came the Romans whose Empire stretched both directions East and
West, they occupied several countries such as Turkey, Palestine, Syria,
Lebanon, and Jordan. The trails they left behind reflect their supremacy
in culture and their civilization. Evidences of this could be found in
Jordan (whose capital is Amman) where the Grand Amphitheatre could be
seen, a construction akin to a modern sport arena , capable of holding
thousands of spectators.
You will also find the city of ‘Jaresh’ with spectacular sites
of great significance, which could be similarly found in other cities
such as Al-Fuhais and the village of Um-Qais.
If you were to go to Syria via Jordan, you will see cities still left
intact such as Tadmer and Busra, and the city of Aleppo where the famous
‘Aleppo Fortress’ lies. Further still heading in the direction
of Lebanon, you will come across the recent archaeological finds - which
I had the pleasure of witnessing last year- in the capital city of Beirut
discovered in the course of the re-constructions program in the aftermath
of a 15 years civil war.
There is also, the vast city of Baalbek which holds the finest Roman
ruins, temples in particulars, such as the spectacular temple allocated
for the worship of the Gods (Bacchus and Jupiter) the like of which could
also be found in Southern Lebanon such as in the cities of Saidon and
Soor, and the Northern cities such as Tripoli and Gabiel as well.
Of the Romans relic in the West -Britain in particular- I am not very
knowledgeable of. I am aware of Hadrian, the Roman Emperor who founded
a kingdom once upon a time (in the first century AC to be precise) and
built fortresses, trenches, and walls to defend it. He erected a wall
(similar to that of China), to fend his land from occupation, and ward
off invaders like himself, as well as barbarians and others who might
be after his English territories. The great Emperor then forfeited taxes
from all visitors entering the city through the gates of the Wall.
This solid construction is 72 miles in length, it starts at the city
of Bowness and ends in the city of Wallsend.
During my participation (amongst poets from all over the world), in the
‘Writing on the Wall’ project which was hosted by the Northern
city of Newcastle my fleeting encounter with this city offered me an opportunity
to witness the trails of this invader, the ruins are now in the safe guard
of secure and caring hands, who are eager to preserve this heritage most
of which was exhibited in Museums and public squares. The Wall however,
continues to exist free and unrestricted in the open air.
There I was, next to this stoney splendid fence - referred to as ‘Hadrian’s
Wall’- which I visited on more than one occasion and viewed it from
various angles. It was situated in a scenic location of extreme charm
and beauty, a place where magic speaks, and bewilderment embodies visions
of nature.
To the North, the English countryside with its brilliant verdant hue and
blues. Pastures, steppes, plains all saturated with the unique smell of
the countryside. Hays, hoes, lambs and the river all sleep peacefully
on the banks of the trees. Cutting across this exalting, fragrant and
endearing climate of magic, Hadrian’s Wall penetrates. A historical
wall of natural beauty, in spite of the ragged stone, is gentle.
From the pores of its stone grew the fuzz of the tender grass of the fields,
transforming it to a green velvet, stretching to cover the rocks like
skin.
It was here that I saw the Roman Temple of the God of the Sun “Mithras”
who (according to Roman mythology), befell a bull and later met his death
in suspicious circumstances, later translated and transformed into daily
rituals and customs still practised by the inhabitants to-date.
Hadrian’s Wall penetrated the hills, embraced by the curving little
lakes. In the distance, a lonely enchanting tree stood hugging the skies,
in a valley with two narrow hills. It is Robin Hood’s tree, that
witty robber defender of the poor. How besotted I was as a child with
him, I saw films about him in Baghdad cinemas (screened in the sixties
simultaneously with an Arabic T.V series) in those romantic days of Black
and White.
Along the Wall, tourists and walkers with their back packs would arrive
from long distances, to inhale the breath of the past and the scent of
that historical stoney construction.
In Newcastle and suburbs such as Segedunum and Arbeia, I managed to visit
several Museums all showing the Roman relics and archaeological finds:
metal armouries, Iron shirts, swords and helmets and even sandals all
made of iron- the attire of the Roman Knight.
On show also were photographs and documentary films as well as the everyday
tools used by the Roman Knights; coins with Emperor Hadrian’s portrait,
plates and utensils, mills and hoes, jeweller y, costumes, glassware,
rubberstamps and such like.
What attracted my attention was the invites to social functions, particularly
to the ones held by Ladies of the Manors. One card requested (his mother)
socks for the Christmas present. The Romans had undoubtedly lived a comfortable
and luxurious lifestyle.
An Arab visitor such as myself cannot fail to note the extreme interest
and care exercised by the custodians of these relics as well as the general
public interest in all things great and small. The relics were sometimes
used or replicated as souvenir, in the form of key holders, various designs,
pens and other such like commodities on sale for the tourists.
In the Northern English city of Newcastle I also noted, that people spoke
without mincing any alphabets unlike the London English Cockney which
even my own children can now speak to perfection!
Through the Poetry workshops we held in the various schools, and the
Poetry evenings held throughout Newcastle, people seemed friendlier and
warmer somehow. This is attributed most probably, I believe, to the sea,
river, hills and forests surrounding it, which seems to prompt one to
contemplate and create. The eloquent recitals of the various poets who
seemed somewhat bonded with this city, consolidate my views.
This city aspire to extend bridges across, and heartily greets the other,
as if in solidarity with Man. This spirit I felt was indeed reflected
in this event and through the various activities which took place in Newcastle
with the participation of various artists and poets.
These activities bore real cultural fruits, much owed to the efforts of
the organisers (UK Arts Council) under the auspicious supervision of Mr
Steve Chettle.
Many poems were written about the Hadrian Wall, most prominently perhaps
was that of W. H. Auden entitled ‘Roman Wall blues’. There
were other texts also written by Northern writers about the importance
of this wall, and on other Roman relics such as the Vindolanda Fortress.
Writers from all over the world were inspired by these Roman ruins, as
indeed I was when I wrote the poem ‘Hadrian’s Wall’
and other poems moved by the beauty of this place some. These influences,
were manifested in my poems in the form of mythological symbols in poems
such as a “Mitheras Temple’ and ‘ A Skeleton in Arbeia
Museum’ which all aspire to recapture the mythical climate of the
time and location.
In our tours we saw numerous places where the Romans left their imprints
and dreams behind. In commemoration of those bygone days these various
events and activities intentionally took place at a close range from these
sites; the Wall, as well as in citadels and fortresses nearby.
In Segedunum, there was an evening event attended by a huge crowd, which
listened eagerly and quietly to the various recitals. The evening was
rich in variety of expressions. How history with all its majesty glittered
in that recital hall.
I recited the poem “Hadrian Wall’ in Arabic, (thereafter
translated by a Moroccan poetess Hafsa Alamrani). Much to my surprise
it was warmly received by the audience who seemed impressed with the sounds
and music of the poem. Various well known poets took part in events of
that evening, and managed to capture the audience with their eloquent
delivery, such as: Bill Herbert and Peter Mortimer and the delicate poetess
Linda France.
Apart from the event in Segedunum, there were other evening recitals
taking parts all over Newcastle. Katrena Porteous soared with her tame
poems, capturing the mood of the audience in that country pub, in the
bossom of the surrounding hills, where the twilight rocks listened tenderly
to the music of the Irish Bag Pipes.
The Romanian poet Denisa Comaeco recited several of her beautiful poems
one evening in a friendly village and was attended by lovers of literature
and arts.
In addition to the poetry recitals held, we participated in poetry workshops
also at the local schools, a most precious experience, for it was my first
recital ever in an elementary school (my previous readings were to a much
older audiences -university students- in France and Poland).
This new experience, my first in Newcastle schools, was a unique and enchanting
encounter, and the most pleasurable. I recited in both languages Arabic
and English, while the children listened in a dreamy daze and not without
astonishment. They were most bright, and asked various poignant questions:
Why did you leave your country? Why do you write poetry? Another asked:
What were your favourite game as a child?
Important big questions, the like of which I had encountered on various
occasions from grown up journalists!
Those children returned me back to my childhood and brought me closer
to poetry. Did not the French poet Charles Baudlier once said: “Poetry
is my new found childhood”!
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